Monday, July 19, 2010

The work that remains...

What is left to be done with our route? Aside from Napoleon trying to free P5 and P7, here is a list of maintenance-type stuff

a) move anchor at top of v-slot to ledge.

b) do a minor scrub on P15 (undercling).

c) same for P13 and P12-- they need minor moss removal. However as it is, they are perfectly climbable, and no gear or hand will be pawing through munge.

d) Possibly clean first few meters of P2.

e) Move fixed line from top part of P16

f) Finish Upper Powaqatsi-- p17 and 18 of our route go, but we could easily add a few bolts and clean up the line (and belay).

g) Look at variations-- P11 and P16 have some interesting possibilities. Napoleon thinks that it would be possible to bypass P7,8,9 and 10 on climber's right...we'll see if he can link the features.

So far a couple of parties have had late starts on the route and bailed off P3 or P4. They confirm the grades and say the climbing is good, with one guy raving about how cool the P3 fingercrack is. There is still a bit of munge on P1 and 2, but nothing that will cause any gear or movement problems. So here's hoping that (a) Napoleon manages to send W.L.Y.W. and (b) more parties get on the route!


  1. p15 needs very little scrubbing, maybe some moss removal at sidepull flake, but mostly at the slab exit at end of roof (which most people will likely choose). p2 could benefit from some cleaning at tree roots before the traverse section, but will likely soil itself again quickly, proving not worth the effort. p1 is excellent, but would be greatly improved by a much more thorough cleaning, particularly of gear placements. p3-4 are stellar and will likely see traffic in their own right, particularly if the 5.12- direct start is finished. Good work

  2. Hi Anon-- thanks for your comments. Did you actually climb the whole route? if so, what do you think of the grades?

  3. again with the spray, when i tell you to shut your mouth about variations.

    what the fuck, are you retarded?

  4. Hi Mike-- you don't get to tell me, or anyone else, what to do. You could try asking politely. You should also note that I have not shown/said where said variation is.

    Finally, using words like "retarded" is not a good way of getting anything done.

  5. Wow I wished I could climb on that route. You seem really passionate about this. I never had someone to do this kind o stuff with. it's a pity...