Wednesday, July 29, 2009

The professionals review our route.

As you all know, the Squamish Mountain Festival is coming up and a few of the legendary climbers who will be presenting and/or teaching clinics have already started trickling into town. And, by a remarkable coincidence, a few other legends have been around at the same time. Many of them have heard of our route and have come out to look at it and thrash on top-rope.

Here are what the world-famous have to say about our line.

Peter Croft: "Wow! I can't wait to free this! it is definitely going to be one of those routes that lives in your dreams! I am gonna drink three litres of Peet's Coffee before I try anything as crazy as THIS line!"

Lynn Hill: "If I weren't so damned busy with my new teach-yuppies-to-climb business, i would commit to a few months on this monster, which inspires me even more than trying to free the Nose did."

Simon Yates: "Ranks up there with my own routes as among the hardest, most dangerous and of course most committing in the world. Hopefully neither of the FAs will have to cut the other loose when it finally goes"

Derrick Hersey: "I was in the pub when I saw this line. I would have done it before this pair of cunts, but I had me pint and me fish and chips to eat first, right? And now I'm fucking dead. More's the pity."

Will Stanhope: "Anybody can climb 5.14 on gear. The new frontier, really, is going to be low 5.12. Especially bolted 5.12. The line looks totally amazing!"

John Bachar: "Well I'm fucking dead too now, aren't I? But if I weren't you can damn well bet I would be onsight soloing this thing. But for all the people in the world who aren't me, well, good for these guys, this route looks awesome and at least they are doing it ground up."

Sonnie Trotter: "I did seven hours of yoga, three hours of coffee drinking, and had ten hours of sleep, and I STILL couldn't get up the nerve to try this route, it looks so hardcore. I need to lower my fitness level from 5.14+ to 5.12-- not an easy feat, let me tell you-- to be able to do this route."

Will Gadd: "Ok, now, everybody knows I am the greatest climber in the entire world. And not even *I* could climb a route like this. Next year I am giving up ice and mixed climbing, my family, my sponsorhips, my flying and indeed all of my material possessions to train 25/8 for this route. Yea!"

So the route should be pretty good, if all of these world-class types are raving the way they are. All we have to do now is finish it.

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